Don’t do it! Synthetic fertilizers might produce an amazing
bounty for a season, but the long-term results are much less impressive.
Instant Gratification
Although nature has the ability to provide your plants with
all the nutrients they need, it takes time to turn those nutrients into
something the plant can readily use. Synthetic fertilizers usually bypass those
natural cycles, and the nutrients are ready for the plants to absorb right
after application. Even slow- or time-release fertilizers provide a certain
amount of nutrients immediately, whereas natural fertilizers like compost and manure
take time to break down.
Unfortunately this instant gratification comes at a cost.
Applications of synthetic fertilizers decrease the population of the beneficial
microorganisms that create a hospitable environment for your plants. Aithout
these microorganisms, the soil cannot recover after the harvest. You’ve just
created a seemingly never-ending cycle of fertilization.
Environmental Hazards
Here in central Florida, we battle an environmental problem
called red tide, which occurs when algae blooms in the Tampa Bay. The algae
bloom depletes the water of oxygen, suffocating all aquatic life. During low
time, the beaches are littered with all types of dead sea creatures. At one
point, algae blooms and red tide had become such a big problem that the sale of
chemical fertilizers is now banned during parts of the year here.
Not only does this algae bloom cause problem in saltwater,
it effects freshwater, too, and turns the air toxic. I've been at the water's
edge during red tide. I am a healthy person with no history of breathing
problems, and I was gasping for air.
How does an algae bloom occur? Unused nutrients from synthesized
fertilizers leach through the soil into groundwater. Improperly applied
fertilizers run off during rain or irrigation and wash into waterways. The
excess nutrients from the fertilizer encourage rapid algae growth causing an
algae bloom.
Organic Material
If your soil seems to lack nutrients, your soil might be
lacking organic material. Organic material like compost, mulch, and manure
allow the soil to retain moisture, prevent soil compaction, provides oxygen,
and promotes a healthy environment for the microorganisms that, in return,
create a healthy environment for your plants. Fertilizer might help with some
nutrient needs for your plants, but it does not improve the overall health of
your soil.
A Struggling Garden
If your garden is struggling, are you sure those struggles
are nutrient related? Check for pests and diseases. Incorporate organic material into the soil. Have your soil tested
through your local cooperative extension office. Check your soil for sand,
silt, and clay. Overly sandy soil, like we have, lacks the organic matter to
create and hold on to useful nutrients. Heavy clay soils retain too much water
and compact too tightly for roots to spread.
At some point, you just realize that a struggling garden cannot be saved this season. However, ending the season right can set both you and your garden up for a successful growing season...next season.
End of Season Care
If your garden is producing nicely this season, then “Yay!”
for you, especially if this was your first attempt at a vegetable garden. Just
remember that every piece of fruit and every vegetable you harvested was formed
from nutrients that the plants pulled from the air and soil. Because we harvest
those fruits and vegetables instead of letting them turn back to the soil,
we’re pretty much robbing the soil of nutrients. Just like the farmer’s field that
has to lie fallow for a season to recover, your garden needs a season to
recover.
Improve your garden’s ability to produce a healthy and
abundant crop by preparing it properly at the end of the growing season. Many
of you will be harvesting the last fruits of your labors for the season in a
month or so. Some of you are already looking at a wilted and dying garden. If
you’re in the Deep South, you’re looking at a patch of ground overrun by grass
and weeds, and you’re wondering why your veggies didn’t grow this well, and why
can’t the front lawn—where you actually want
the grass to grow—look this good?!
So, what do you do next? Cover that garden with a nice thick
layer of compost, manure, and mulch. And I mean thick! A good 4 to 6 inches
thick! Call around to local horse stables, barns, and farms. You might be
surprised at just how cheap a truckload of manure is. We were quite blessed
this year to find a stable that loaded our truck with manure for $10. For a
total of $30, we covered our 800-square-foot garden with about 6 inches of
manure! You cannot get that in a bag at any big box store!
After you spread that manure and add in the compost from
your backyard compost bin, till it all into the soil. If you only have a small
garden, turn it by hand with a spade or pitchfork. However, if you have a
sizable garden, beg, borrow, or rent a tiller! Bribe a neighbor or friend who
owns a tiller with an offer of lunch and a can of gas. Share the cost of a
rental with a friend and do two gardens for the price of one.
For years, we turned our garden by hand, believing that a
tiller was not only out of the budget but also not a big benefit to the garden.
We were so wrong! A tiller turns the soil better and deeper than any of us ever
could by hand.
Also, turning the soil can be hard work. Around here,
tilling happens in 90-degree weather, unless you try to get it done in the
mosquito cloud of early morning. A tiller changes the job from a several-hour
back-breaking chore to a much more pleasant stroll through the garden.
Finally, tilling every couple of weeks while the garden is
“resting” really annoys the nematodes in the soil! Although soil
solarization—trapping the sun’s heat under plastic, baking the soil for 6 to 8
weeks—is reputed to work well on nematodes, our attempts produced little more
than a pile of sun-baked brittle plastic cluttering up a local landfill.
Regularly working the soil has yielded the best results.
If you’re in a cooler climate, and your garden is buried
under a foot or two of snow in the winter, pile on the manure and mulch before
the snow hits and let the weight of the snow do its job on your garden.
Thanks for stopping by! I hope this post convinces you to
walk away from the bags of chemical fertilizers and their empty promises of
abundant crops. Don’t make me tell you all the problems the manufacturing of those fertilizers cause!
Grace and peace be
yours in abundance,
Betty
The Morris Tribe's Homesteading Blog Carnival
The Prairie Homestead's Barn Hop
The Modest Mom's Monday Link Up
Frugally Sustainable's Frugal Ways, Sustainable Days
Deep Roots at Home's Encouraging One Another Link Up
Raising Homemaker's Wednesday Link Up
We are THAT Family's Works for me Wednesday
GNOWFGLINS Simple Lives Thursday
Homemaker by Choice's Homemaking Link Up
Shared on Dandelion House's Farm Girl Friday
Little House in the Suburbs
The Prairie Homestead's Barn Hop
The Modest Mom's Monday Link Up
Frugally Sustainable's Frugal Ways, Sustainable Days
Deep Roots at Home's Encouraging One Another Link Up
Raising Homemaker's Wednesday Link Up
We are THAT Family's Works for me Wednesday
GNOWFGLINS Simple Lives Thursday
Homemaker by Choice's Homemaking Link Up
Shared on Dandelion House's Farm Girl Friday
Little House in the Suburbs







Betty,
ReplyDeleteGood morning! I agree with you. We will continue with our ala natural garden!!!!
Right now, we're waiting to plant our fall harvest.
I use horse manure and chicken manure, lol!!!
ReplyDeleteGreat stuff, Betty! I nominated you for the Versatile Blogger Award. You can get it from my site http://dee-lightfullmoments.blogspot.com/
ReplyDeleteGreat post! I've been gardening without commercial fertilizer (other than organic bone or blood meal to treat imbalances) ever since we moved here, going into our third season, and each year I see huge improvements. The first year I planted sweet corn, and it didn't get very tall and our yield was very small. This year my sweet corn is the tallest in the neighborhood (including the farmer's fields!) and each stalk has lots of ears filling out as we speak- the difference is really startling! And I've seen a huge difference in the pest population as well. I assume it's because healthier plants are naturally less succeptible, and because a garden free of chemicals is home to lots and lots of beneficials. I did have a tiny problem with squash bugs this year and was almost tempted to spray for them when I lost my two pumpkin plants, but then I noticed almost all of the leaves with squash bug eggs also had huge populations of these little spider mite looking things... who were feasting on the squash bug eggs. Had I sprayed I would have killed both, and while it's pretty guaranteed the squash bugs would come back, it's likely the predatory bugs wouldn't.
ReplyDeleteI don't know if I missed it, but I also recommend any gardeners out there don't bag and send your fall leaves (if you have them) to the dump- they make for great organic matter. I made a makeshift bin out of garden fencing and let them break down as long as possible (2 years is ideal) then add them to the garden along with the compost. ALSO ashes from wood stoves (as long as only wood and paper are burned- no creosote logs or other chemicals) are a great addition to the garden. Sprinkle them directly onto the garden, not onto the compost pile, because the nutrients in them wash away quickly.
We raise goats, chickens and alpacas...great for the garden! Gotta laugh at your description of the south- dead front grass and weeds/grass galore in the garden. That's us.
ReplyDeleteThank you for this informative post! Lots of great ideas!
ReplyDeleteI would love it if you would share this at the Smart Solutions linky party. You can link up here:
http://theprudentpantryblog.blogspot.com/2012/07/prudent-projects-and-smart-solutions.html
Have a great day!
thanks for sharing.
ReplyDelete